49 replies to this topic

[Silver Swordsman]

Ok, before I start, I have to give this to X-Car. He's the inspiration behind this, and I just took the idea and carried it a bit further. This Forum is dedicated to RCT3, NL and modelling, is it not?

I'll be brief. For those awesome, self-promoting modellers (like me, just kidding) who have a new finding ingame, or whatever, post them here. It should give you some satisfaction that you "are contributing", and it will also help those that may need the extra boost/inspiration get what they want.

To those who are posting, please provide pictures and or a description of how it works. If you trust that your picture is self explanatory or your wording gets the point across, the other can be dropped. In other words, people looking for guidance will have to be able to directly understand what you are implying and will be completely able to do it themselves.

Irrelevant comments (comments that are personal and do not have any educational value for the community) are disapproved of, unless you find something wrong or needs clarification. Otherwise, a PM to the author should suffice.

I'll start it off with some. Good example:

Support killing tip. If you are tired of having shadows appear whenever using Jcat's support killers (works only on steel supports, not wood), a good way is to place them 1H underground. The SK still retains its effect, and there are no shadows. NOTE: terraforming afterwards can produce unexpected results. (I think I already mentioned this somewhere, but that was a long time ago)

The tip is clear and is unambiguous. A person who has problems with Jcat's support killers can quickly understand what the post is saying.


Bad example:

I'll let this just speak for itself:


The post does not say how I built the station. I just posted a picture and figured whoever was using it could figure out how everything was put together. He also does not mention what CS packs were used.


I figured I've said everything I've needed to say. Let the ideas flow.

EDIT: please refer to which game you are talking about. Some content can be initially confusing (for some people).

EDIT: I'll say that double-triple posting is OK, given that having three different tips in one post is rather hard to read en masse.

EDIT: I guess comments and questions are allowed, given that people are asking questions anyways and giving feedback as well. Just please keep the comments constructive and helpful. (No "hurr, that's so cool, I gotta try that someday" stuff)

EDIT: Figuring out that "Inspiration" means sometimes just screenshots, I guess screens of your creations without much explanation will do. Just be prepared to answer questions when people ask "How did you do that?" or "What is your formula for making gardens?" etc etc.

Edited by Silver Swordsman, 11 May 2010 - 03:39 AM.

[Ryan Shrout]

This is somewhat basic but just for those who didn't know these existed, here are some in-game cheat codes for RCT3. They are activated by giving these names to peeps. Keep in mind that some are just funny and pointless.

M Brookes: allows you to place a wall on the same tile as a pathway
Rick Griffiths: changes underground texture of tunnels to a shark motif.
Mornington Crescent: Allows you to place shops underground
Andrew Thomas: Epic low friction on everything
David Braben: Allows unlimited speed on chain lifts and launches
John D Rockefeller: Gives you $10,000
John Watts: Peep Cam
John Wardley: Unlimited height
Frontier Unbreakable: Your rides won't break down
Shifty: makes your peeps dance
Atomic: Ride crash explosions release nuclear bursts that throw peeps everywhere
James Hunt: drops a dune buggy in your park that you can enter coaster-cam and drive.

That's all I know, if anyone has more, please post them.

[Silver Swordsman]

Frontier Unbreakable: Your rides won't break down

Hmmm... Using "Frontier" alone works too. RCT3 is case insensitive by the way, so "frontier" works, too.

More RCT3 cheats:

Guido Fawkes: Advanced Firework Editor (Pointless if you don't know how to use it)

A Hitchcock: Birds, birds, birds

Sam Denny: Guests ride all coasters

John Roach: Guests ride all rides

ATITech: Game speeds up (expires after 20seconds)

Atari: All peeps cheer

Photostory: Peeps take pictures

D Lean: Opens Flying Camera Route Editor (Can also be done by pressing Ctrl+Shift+0)

FPS: displays Frames per Second (irreversible)

Ghost Town: stops peep flow into park (irreversible)


My personal favorites:

David Walsh: Removes GUI (Ctrl+U to activate,press again to restore). Useful for taking pictures or fixed shot movies

Mouse: Peeps follow cursor (expires after 30 seconds)



SpliTrak Studios Filmmaking Note:

The Mouse cheat is one of the best tools of peep control. For RCT3 movie-making wannabes, the worst nightmare for an RCT3 director is the lack of cooperation from your actors: apparently they are more interested in looking for non-existent roller coasters than the camera; in other words, they walk away. One effect of this cheat is that the peeps do not move for the 30 seconds that they look at your mouse. Given that any conversational shot should take no more than 5 seconds, this is a primary method of keeping peeps stationary while filming.



Another Film making Note:

RCT3 peeps are very dumb. Save their clean apparel, they are nothing more than mindless zombies, who will always wander towards paths, food, and roller coasters, and will always be unafraid of fire until it burns them. Basically, filming an RCT3 movie is quite a daunting task in simply getting those peeps in line. Therefore, when working with these mindless park guests, manipulation is required. For example, say you want your Peep to go from Point A to Point B, but because Point A has a roller coaster (or anything of interest), Peep refuses to go to B. It is then recommended that you look at Peep's stats and note any wantings (i.e. hunger, thirst, bathroom, sunburn). Addressing those, open shops at point B selling the Peep's demands at insanely low prices. (Make sure that there is either a pathway between Point A and B or none at all) The peep should go there.



If your peep does not want anything, or you want Peep to flee from danger, (an explosion, let's say), the problem is finding the danger. Fire particles have no effect on a peep's intelligence (yes, they will burn themselves to death before they know it), but what they do recognize are WILD ANIMALS. Yes, simply drop a grizzly bear or a cheetah on the sidewalk and watch Peep run! Make sure you back up the game before you do so (as in some high-rise movie sets you may not be able to dart the animal afterwards). You may also want to make sure that there are no impediments to Peep's running course, or else he/she will back up into a corner and tremble.

So there you have it. RCT3 basic peep manipulation.

Edited by Silver Swordsman, 29 April 2010 - 04:37 AM.

[Silver Swordsman]

For those of you who tried using NF particle effects (it really is a good set), I think we've all hit some level of frustration. For once, when you're using the Flying Camera Route Editor, the black boxes show up.

NF provided a complex way to get rid of them (and involving a high risk level), but I toyed around and found a simpler way:

Go to the Settings tab/Graphics/LOD, and set the Draw Distance for "Scenery" to 0. This will cause the black boxes to disappear, along with firework mortars, and such. The only drawback is that some in-game scenery (like terrain blocks) will also disappear as well, but seriously, what CS user uses the in-game stuff anyways? Custom scenery will not be affected.

For filming, another fun way to use NF Particles is to pause the game, place the particle where you want, and then immediately delete it. Run up the FCRE, and set your Route (if you haven't already). When you are ready, record and unpause. The particle effect should still play once before going bye-bye, and the boxes are nowhere in sight.

Edited by Silver Swordsman, 20 June 2011 - 08:59 AM.

[The BeastFan]

There's a point on coaster transitions I've wanted to get acrossed for a long time and also what pieces not to use on specific coasters. These are rules of thumb I use.

First pieces not to use- the 0 g roll on anything that resembles an Arrow/Vekoma coaster (Corkscrew, Tilt, Flyer, SLC), it just looks hideous

When using the extended coaster and you have use of barrel rolls or 0g rolls and/or the holding brakes used on Dive Machines, try to stay away from the SFMM Goliath cars (the 6 seaters) and the X-car (for the brake only), they simply look like they weren't designed for said maneuvers

Try to use the big corkscrew pieces over the smaller ones, especially on cobra rolls (boomerangs are ok with them I guess)

Don't over use consecutive overbank pieces on those that offer them

When building a wood coaster using non-articulated trains, avoid the steep turns (exception- a GCI coaster like Wildcat (HP) and Roar(SFA) that use PTC's)

Unless its specifically for a launch, avoid using block brake pieces as such, especially in the case where you don't have enough momentum to complete a circuit.

Avoid inversions on the Vekoma motorbike coasters (though I can see a high speed loop or a cutback)

For transitions, don't be afraid to use straight track. Especially for the banked drops. I try to set it up where the pieces transitioning from up to down and visa versa are unbanked before I continue into a turn. For example, you start the piece going up not banked at all, then the very next piece, you bank it, add the turn, unbank it, and the next piece is where you level off and you repeat on the way down. Some of those transitions otherwise look highly unnatrual. Also don't be afraid to use use straight, unbanked track between level banked turns. The extended has a banked s-curve that works well in this transition.

For the extended in this case, they have pieces where it banks through the curve. In certain cases, this is alright, just make sure it isn't entering said turns too fast, otherwise, use the suggestion I said above. Of course, when you get late into the course and rely on smaller hills, this may be a tad problematic, but in that case, just plan the course out to where you don't need too many banked curves to get back to the station.

Speaking of extended, mix and match every single piece in whatever way to see what different track looks like. You'll then have in the back of your mind all the track potentially offered to create what you want.

This rule is for B&M stand up creations based on Riddler, Chang and Mantis, specifically, inclined loops. For that big of an element, the offered inclined loop is unadequate IMO because its simply too small compared to the elements before hand, and elevating it simply makes it look awkward, IMO. There is a way around it, and you need the extended coaster for this to work. First, start of by giong up, but not to steep yet. Then, add a piece going to 45* on that upwards angle. Next, go steep, add 2 dive loop pieces at that angle to where it forms that inclined loop shape. then, just get to level and go immediately into a banked turn. This can work in the opposite way as well. What you get is more sized up to those huge dive loops and vertical loops you previously used on making big B&M loopers.

[Silver Swordsman]

Ok, I think I posted this up a long time ago, before even the Automatic Support Generator, Auto-Flanger, Newton, or even the Automatic Heartline Generator thing, but after C-net got its facelift, my thread just went "poof". So, I'm providing you the "old school" way of making supports. Detailed instructions, plus illustrations should set you off as an NL support professional in no time. (If you're the kind of person that's too lazy to go learn those various programs).

 Realistic_Supports Tutorial.doc   1.35MB   203 downloads

[The BeastFan]

This is to add to the comments I made about banked drop transitions, for smaller hills where you are forced to have the first piece going up banked, have a level piece to bank first and then go up/down.

[The BeastFan]

I have a few questions concerning No Limits. Most revolve around certain track segment speeds.

1. What is a good lift speed for the different coasters?

2. What is a good MCBR/final brake speed?

3. When fiddling with the brakes, I found a number that refers to a term called hysterisis, what does that refer to?

[Nessie]

1. It depends on what you're looking for. Usually I go for about 7-8 mph, but on some rides where you want to crank up the excitement and fear, 3-5 mph works well. Anything above 20 mph isn't good at all, and anything from 10-20 should be labeled as a cable lift, not a chain. To see a good cable lift, download eab_444's I305. His was well done. If you don't want to go through all the 3d work to make a cable, just say it is in the file description.

2. 0mph. As far as I can tell, the most realistic brake runs are slightly tilted down-wards. It stops the train, and then without the aid of transport, rolls into the station. It may help to put some leveling off track between the brakes and the station. For a MCBR, I would just put the brake strength a bit lower and let the train fly through with a speed relative the how fast it was moving hitting the brake run. It is also advisable to tilt it down-wards so that the train that would probably be parked there when the ride begins rolls off without transport.

3. No idea. I have been trying to figure that one out for a while.

That is just what I do. When it comes to NoLimits, there isn't a set of rules about these things. It is just up to you.

[Kevin Dice]

Lift Hill Speed:

• B&M Hyper, Floorless, Sitdown, and Standup: 5-8MPH
• Schwarzkopf Looper: 4-5MPH
• Arrow/Vekoma Corkscrew: 5-6MPH
• Vekoma SLC: 5-7MPH
• B&M Invert: 5-8MPH
• Intamin w/ Chain Lift: 5-8MPH
• Intamin w/ Cable Lift: 10-15MPH
• X-Car 3-6MPH
• Eurofighter: 3-6MPH
• Wooden: 4-6MPH
• You probably won't use the others as much. If you do, just use your judgement.

Final Brake Speed:

• For the MCBR, you should aim for around 10-20MPH. This really depends on height of brake run, length of brake run, and a few other things. Just make sure that if you hit the emergency stop button (F12) that your train can come to a full and complete stop and that the train will be able to manage the rest of the ride after emergency stop is released.
• Usually you would want the train to come to a complete stop. In that case, just check the box for that and enter the holding time. (1-2 seconds is fine). The speed you set for the brake run should be the max speed you want the train to go after the comes to the complete stop.
• If you are building an Intamin like Kingda Ka or I305 where the train doesn't come to a complete stop at the final brake, then (of course depending on the track back to the station and the turns) you would set the brake speed at 5-10MPH.
• Don't make your brake run longer than it needs to be. Don't make it painfully short ether. The deceleration G's should be between 0.4 and 1.5 G's. Anything more is uncomfortable. Anything less is really boring.
• If you discover the need to add trims on your rides, you can set the deceleration force about 0.2-0.5G's. Also at the bottom of the segment editing window for brakes, there is a brake trigger box with a slider. Because trim brakes tend to be short pieces of track, you won't use the brake efficiently if the trigger on train is in the center. Set the trigger at the front of the train so that the brake is decelerating the train during the whole time the train is over the brake rather then the time the back half of the train is over the brake.
• Like Nessie said: Some coaster styles have downward sloping brake runs.
• This is probably obvious but: Always straighten your brake runs, lift hills, and stations. Click on the track segment/segments and click edit/ make streight.

About the Hysteresis:
This is just my theory and I am probably wrong...
On the brake run, after the initial breaking is applied and the speed has gone down to what the segment settings are, I believe the hysterisis setting is an allowance above the set brake speed that the brake segment will allow the train to go before reapplying the brake to slow it back down again.

For example: A brake segment is at a 30 degree downward angle. A train hits the top at 80 MPH. The segment is set for 5MPH brake speed. The brakes engage, the train slows down to 5MPH. Then because the brake is at a 30 degree downward slope, the train starts to gain speed. Say the hysteresis is set at 4MPH. The brakes will allow the train to get up to 9MPH till the brakes engage and slow it back down to 5MPH. So the steeper your brake segment, the higher your histerisis should be. My reasoning for this is: The steeper the brake segment, the more speed the train will gain in a shorter amount of time. If you have a small hysteresis, the brakes will be applied and disengaged more often along the segment. If your hysteresis is very small, you may even experience a very choppy on and off deceleration which is no fun for your riders.

Again: This is only my theory of what the hysteresis setting means and I could be totally wrong.

[The BeastFan]

So I'm in the process of practicing with terrain coasters. For the most part, I go into the terraformer and use the generator to work from there. The problem is, I either get too hilly or too flat. So, to those who've tried or practice this, what would be the best settings for the best terrain to use? Also, I could use some tips on building terrain coasters as well.

[Silver Swordsman]

So I'm in the process of practicing with terrain coasters. For the most part, I go into the terraformer and use the generator to work from there. The problem is, I either get too hilly or too flat. So, to those who've tried or practice this, what would be the best settings for the best terrain to use? Also, I could use some tips on building terrain coasters as well.

Not sure what you're doing in the terrain generator (terraformer), but I'll try my best to help. (Normally I don't.)

Opening up the track file, click a marker where you think the center of the hill/valley will be. The marker should turn red, and surrounding markers will turn yellow, and the fringes, green.



Go to Tools>Adjust Height



Right now, I am going to raise the land by 10 feet/meters (depending on settings). You can choose how high you want your hill to be. Make sure that you check "Effect Marked Area Only", or you will bury your track alive.



This should happen.



To smooth the hill, go to Edit>Marker Area. I used 3 for the initial hill, so increase the number to something larger (depending on how far you want to smooth the hill out.) I used 6.



Viola.




To get your particularly desired effect, just tinker around with the values. (Not surprisingly, you can make depressions the same way, given that you are check "Lower Land" in the "Adjust Height" panel.)



Hope that helps.

Edited by Silver Swordsman, 31 March 2010 - 05:57 AM.

[Kevin Dice]

^I think he's talking about the terrain generator in the terraformer.

[Silver Swordsman]

Oops. If that's the case, I can't help. I rarely use the generator anyhow.

RCT3 support killer revision tip v2.0:When one is support-killing, do not use Jcat's support killer, or any custom support killer. Not only does it eat RAM up, but it is also very unforgiving in case one makes a mistake--cleaning up is messy and time-consuming as you have to find the piece first (oh my, it's invisible ) and you cannot "clear minefield" either--you must delete it by hand. It is also glitchy (as it sometimes doesn't work simply because it doesn't feel like it) sometimes. Recommendation? Use Colored Walls (Concrete Slab). Place it underground (No deeper than 5H) and it will still influence the tile's supports.

Edited by Silver Swordsman, 13 April 2010 - 08:00 AM.

[Silver Swordsman]

NL:

Object Creator tutorial:
Ok, I took a look and did a review, and since gravimetricstudios is no longer working, there goes the tutorials. I guess I'll just run you through it. Don't panic, just breathe. Trust me, other 3ds programs fill books on how to use them. I'm giving you the basics in less than a two pages.



On default, the program is split into fourviews. I think that's enough to fuzzle anyone, so I'll just label them.



3d

Top

Side

Front



As you will find, these three views are the same as NL. Look at the top panel. You should see a group of squares saying T, L, and F. You will also find that there is a square divided into four smaller squares, and a square containing a blue cube. For now, let's just get basic, and click T.



All of a sudden, all you have is a blank screen. You are now in Top view. Now, to build, simply drag your cursor across the screen. What? That's all? Once you drag an outline, it automatically takes shape in OBJcreator. Selecting the model, you will find that you can "drag" the cube along. Click the Cube Square on the top and see it in 3d. This newly created cube is known as a "brush".



That's wonderful, but let's say you wanted to make a table, or a thin wall piece. How do you do that? Remember, OBJCreator is strictly compatible with NL, as the control concepts work pretty much the same. Because the thickness/height of the model (Z-axis) cannot be determined from the Top view (as it only controls X and Y), switch to either Side or Front view. However, no matter how much you click on it, the cube just moves around! You can't edit how high it is,how wide it is, or how long. How,then?



Again, go to the top, where you see "Modify". Selecting it, you will see various forms of editing. Note that the current selection is"Brush Move". This is the defaultsetting when you create a new brush. Select vertex edit. (This feature can also befound on the left, where there is a blue cube, a blue square, an "I" with a bulge in the middle, and a blue sphere. Hover cursor over them to see description.)



The corners now have aqua colored dots. Don't drag them yet. You will find that by clicking on them, the corners turn light blue. In essence, youcan "multiselect". With both vertexes selected, you can drag both sides simultaneously. To deselect, right click. Right Click again to deselect the brush. You now have your tabletop.



Now that your table is done, you will want to make the legs of the table. However, because square legs look rather plain, hexagonal legs look much better. At the top, you will find a triangle, a square, a pentagon… and so forth. Notethat the current selection is the square. Experiment around to see what happens. Once you have your leg shaped, STOP. Unlike NL, you can COPY AND PASTE. (Oh, if we could do that with supports) Make sure that the leg is selected, then go to the Edit tab. Copy/paste,from there should not be hard. (The copy/paste option will prove invaluable as OBJcreator's unregistered version has restrictions on the number of brushes you can spawn. You can, however, bypass this by copy/pasting. It is therefore recommended that you have a generic "square" in which you can copy from if you are building complex models)



In case you messed up and or you need to fix past brushes, you will realize that clicking on them have no effect. You need to go to the Edit tab and use the "select" feature. Depending on the complexity ofthe model, you can find the brush you want to edit. (In larger models, where there are over 25 brushes, you may want to assign brushes to specific groups, such as "Legs" foryour table, or "Table" in general if you were to create an entire living room.



Once you have what you want, you will probably want to put some textures on it. Let's say you want to recreate the Stone Table in Narnia. Right now I'm assuming you have around 5 brushes (Tabletop, 4x legs).



Go the bottom, and you will see various textures at your disposal. You can install more textures by placing them in the ObjTextures folder of the ObjectCreator root folder, but they will not show up until you reboot OBJcreator. Select all the brushes youwant to place the texture on, then click on the desired texture. VIOLA! Further editing can be done on the left-hand panel, where you can rotate the texture, isolate the texture to one face of the brush (useful for making control panels and signs), making the brush transparent, or tweaking the x/yaxis for texture distort, but you can figure this stuff out by yourselves.

[Silver Swordsman]

RCT3 conservatism:

Some ways to help save your computer from death by RCT3.

> Avoid shrubs and plants. Normally, flora is supposed to be green and eco-friendly; too bad it also makes your computer green and is not CPU-friendly. Unless you REALLY need to put that tree there, it's generally best not to, unless you're behind an epic gaming computer with a triple digit RAM graphic card and a relatively clean map. Forests are also killers. Environmentalism really is against technology, isn't it? If you absolutely MUST have a forest and you must have RAM-killing maps, a final reprieve would be to deselect "3D trees and plants" in Options. I never tested it, but I'm sure it should make a difference.

> Use FreeRAM XP Pro. Ok ok. I'm not advertising, but I think this is nifty. I noted that RCT3 takes up the most RAM during loading (particularly "Post-Activate), and as the game runs, RAM gradually trickles back. However, if the map is still very full (1993 MB out of 2000 MB of RAM used), you avoid computer death crisis by using the above application. Once the game has finished loading and you are staring at your half-finished masterpiece, pause the game, and open FreeRAM XP Pro and just try to free some 200 MB. Your game should freeze, and after around 30 seconds to a minute (depending on computer epic-ness), the game should regain functionality. At first, there will be a slight drop in framerate, but after a few minutes, the game should slowly revert back to normal, and LOOK MAMA! I STILL HAVE 150 MB FREE! If RCT3 is still KO your computer, free more RAM at a time. Repeat whenever you feel that its going too low. Keep in mind that this tip is only for those computer users that are constantly afraid that their hard drive is going to burn out, and I know what you mean. (I actually burned my hand on my touchpad once).

> Pause the game while building. Duh.

> If your rides are closed, make sure that the trains aren't showing. (Especially if you are using high-poly CTRs)

> Switch screen resolutions. Just for the heck of it. It actually frees between 50 to 125 MB of RAM.

> Set Geometry Imposter Distance lower. I think this helps, but not sure. At least, don't set it to 999.

> Look away. This doesn't save RAM, but it helps performance. As RCT3 is a real-time rendered game, simply by looking away from that 15000 poly Times Square recreation can save your computer. This is particularly useful if you are building something and need that high framerate to see what you're doing.

> Avoid using Custom Scenery when you can. RCT3 designers designed the pieces to be used en masse and still not retard game performance. Apparently CS makers stress quality over performance, so when you are wanting to fill a not-so-visible space in the wall, or when you are going to support kill, don't use CS support killers--use colored walls/concrete slab. It can save up to 100 MB of RAM upwards.

EDIT:

Surprisingly, fullscreen, even if that means your resolution is vamped way up. The computer doesn't have to fear about switching programs and can devote more energy to processing the game. Saves 500 MB upwards.

Edited by Silver Swordsman, 21 April 2010 - 04:16 AM.

[The BeastFan]

Ok, this is directed to those more knowlegable in RCT3 than I. I need a tutorial on how to download CTR's and CFR's and use them in the game. I've tried before using various other tutorials, but some are confusing and the videos on youtube aren't the greatest quality. So, if anyone could instruct me, I'd appreciate it.

[Silver Swordsman]

Ok, this is directed to those more knowlegable in RCT3 than I. I need a tutorial on how to download CTR's and CFR's and use them in the game. I've tried before using various other tutorials, but some are confusing and the videos on youtube aren't the greatest quality. So, if anyone could instruct me, I'd appreciate it.

CTRs installation depends on whether or not they actually come with the ride .ovls or just the trains themselves.

When downloading, the folder structure should have a "Cars" folder and a "Tracks" folder or something along those lines. A bit of info how CTRs work. Ever wonder how you could splice different trains onto the same track with the CTR_Creator? That's because RCT3 has this "library" of tracks and cars in its root folder, not surprisingly, under tracks and cars respectively. The Cars folder should house all of the trains, both ingame and custom ones. Depending on the creator's specifications (which should be said in the Readme, you install the CTR trains into either the CoasterCars folder or the TrackedRides folder.

If the CTR was a stand-alone (which means you will have to configure the CTR_Creator to actually get a working ride, installation ends here. CTR_Creator workings I assume you understand the workings of. (If not, Vodhin's DL center has the tutorial. If the creator provided a CTR ride for use already, then there is one final step for installation:

You should see whatever the CTR's name is (It should have CTR_ at the front of the name, and should be comprised of two files, the common.ovl and the unique.ovl. Whatever. Simply place that folder into the Tracks/TrackedRides folder, and make sure that the Cars are installed properly. Open up a new Sandbox in RCT3, and if this is your first CTR installation, depending on what you've installed, you should find a new icon and tracktype waiting for you. If clicking on it doesn't crash the game, you're done.

Final Summary:

>Install the Cars into the Cars folder in RCT3 root folder, depending on creator preference, install into either Cars/CoasterCars or Cars/TrackedRidesCars, or both if you simply don't care.

>Install the track "blueprint" .ovl folder into Tracks/TrackedRides: the CTR_WhateveryourCTRis folder with only the common.ovl and unique.ovl inside.


Hope that helps.

(500th post!)

[biZarRo]

I don't know how many of you guys know the Options.txt trick so I'm just gonna post here.

Vista or Windows 7 user tutorial

First, you go to C:-Users-(username)-AppData-Atari-RCT3-Roaming. Then open up the options.txt file. Press enter before typing each one of these "codes"(don't know the proper name)

AttractionSceneryAllowTerrainIntersect 1
AttractionSceneryAllowSceneryIntersect 1
TrackAllowSameTrackIntersect 1

Windows XP user tutorial

Go to C:-Documents and Settings-(username)-Application Data-Atari-RCT3. Then open the options.txt file. Press enter before typing each one of these "codes"(don't know the proper name)

AttractionSceneryAllowTerrainIntersect 1
AttractionSceneryAllowSceneryIntersect 1
TrackAllowSameTrackIntersect 1

Hope that helps.

[Silver Swordsman]

How to crash RCT3:
(In other words: Things you will want to avoid)

> Messing with the custom scenery folder structure. Gives you the infamous no svd. for sid. error.

> Messing with the terrain along the waterline when the water's borders extend beyond the park map.

> (Interestingly) building a curve underground that touches the park border.

Edited by Silver Swordsman, 04 May 2010 - 08:46 AM.

[biZarRo]

^lol, I figured out the last one the hard way. Got the svd for sid error.

[Silver Swordsman]

Okay... if someone could post like some do's and don'ts for making gardens in RCT2 or 3 I would really appreciate it. Thanks. I never seem to get it right, like what trees to use, how much, and what varieties.

[Silver Swordsman]

EDIT for CC's cheat list:It's not John Watts, or Johnny Watts. It's Jonny Watts. Picky... I know.

[krosscoasters]

Is there a good way to kill the supports on a log flume in RCT3?


Also, just a random thought, but if anyone is doing an Arrow coaster in RCT3, I would recommend Big Timber's for the scaffolding. It's worked out pretty well for me.

Edited by krosscoasters, 26 May 2010 - 04:26 PM.

[Kevin Dice]

^There's always the support killers that are found it Jcat's Steelworx or Mobey's Steel Jungle.


So, I just came up with this idea....

What if we did an official NoLimits "COASTER-net: The Ride". Several people would work on it. I'm thinking 2 people on trackwork, 1 or 2 on terrain, 3 on scenery, and 1 or 2 on supports. It could end up being the most epic coaster ever and would be great advertising for the site, considering that if we have billboards inside of the track file, everyone of the people that download it (wheather off of the NLExchange or here) will see the signs and possibly join the forums.